I have written many posts about our Bokashi bin and so I thought adding a video on how to use a Bokashi bin with EM Bokashi powder would help.
We use our Bokashi bin in conjunction with our worm farm. We were finding that we were creating too much household organic waste for our little wormy friends. Also a limitation to having a worm farm is that they can be a little fussy on what they will and will not eat.
However we put everything into the Bokashi bin (except for meat bones) even those items that worms won’t eat like citrus, dairy and protein. View the video below which will show you how to use a Bokashi bin.
When the Bokashi bin is full we then add the whole contents into our worm farm. As the waste inside the bin has already started to brake down due to the EM Bokashi powder, I have found that the worms are eating the contents (even though there is protein, citrus etc) and the EM powder will also continue to brake the waste down as well. The EM Bokashi powder doesn’t appear to bother the worms.
If you have a large garden you can burry the Bokashi bin waste into the ground but as we live in the inner city with limited garden space, we need our wormy friends to continue the brake down process.
As the waste has already started to brake down due to the EM Bokashi powder, I am finding the worms together with the EM powder are decomposing the waste a lot quicker than just the worms on their own. This has solved our problem of creating too much waste for our little worms to handle.
Also below I have added my original video about using a worm farm.
Also wanted to mention again that if you live in Sydney, the City Council have free composting & worm farm half day courses. You are even given a free compost bin or worm farm at the end of the course (about three hours).
How to use a Bokashi Bin
How to use a Worm Farm
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March 23, 2009 at 10:42 am
Topics about Recycle » Using a Bokashi bin & EM Bokashi powder
[...] Greener Me created an interesting post today on Using a Bokashi bin & EM Bokashi powderHere’s a short outlineI have written many posts about our Bokashi bin and so I thought adding a video on how to use a Bokashi bin with EM Bokashi powder would help. We use our Bokashi bin in conjunction with our worm farm. We were finding that we were creating too much household organic waste for our little wormy friends. Also a limitation to having a worm farm is that they can be a little fussy on what they will and will not eat. However we put everything into the Bokashi bin (except for meat bones [...]
April 9, 2009 at 12:03 am
kazintrepid
I am having the same problem with our worms not keeping up with our waste. Was wondering if I could put Bokashi Bin contents on worm farm and you have answered my question so thank you.
Do you wait until your bin is full and put it all on at once so they worms get new food every 3-4 weeks?
Would be interested to know.
April 9, 2009 at 9:07 am
weddingplanningtips
Hi Kazintrepid,
I am glad the post was helpful. Currently we have only one Bokashi bin and it gets full after 2-4 weeks so I have to empty it.
You propably shouldn’t leave it past three weeks to feed your worms but I think I have at times fed them around 4 weeks (over holidays etc).
Sometimes our bin is getting full around two weeks so we were thinking of maybe buying another Bokashi bin and once full letting it sit and start filling up the 2nd bin. Once three weeks has past feeding the worms from the first full bin. This bin therefore will be empty and so we can start adding new food to it and let the other bin sit until it is time to feed the worms again.
Hope this helps.
Sarhn
April 15, 2009 at 12:10 pm
kazintrepid
Sarhn,
Bokashi bins arrived this week so is in action. Loving it as it also means I don’t have to keep items in a plastic container in the fridge waiting until the worms are ready for the next feed.
Can see already this system is going to work well as an addition to our worms.
Thanks
Kazintrepid
April 15, 2009 at 11:06 pm
weddingplanningtips
Wow I am thrilled Kazintrepid!
Really, you have made my day. It is comments like yours that makes my green blogging worth while.
Reallly appreciate you updating me.
Happy Bokashi bin adventures!
Sarhn
April 27, 2009 at 6:11 pm
billjackjane
Hi There, I just had a peek at your video attached to this post.
My feedback or comments would be that the grate should be underneath the waste (separates solid bokashi waste from the juice). Not sure if you have 2 grates in your system, but this could be confusing for users of the Green Frog Bokashi Bucket, as the bucket only comes with 1 grate.
Secondly: Pouring Bokashi Juice, straight (neat) onto plants or garden is too strong (risk burning roots or killing natives). It should be diluted. example ration 200:1 Juice to Water.
More information can be found in full instructions for this Green Frog Bokashi system at http://bokashi.com.au/How-Bokashi-works.htm
May 1, 2009 at 8:18 pm
weddingplanningtips
billjackjane thank you for your comment. As you know I bought your Green Frog Bokashi from one of your dealers. This is where I learnt how to use the Bokashi bin. Placing the grate (yes only came with one grate) on top of the waste was suggested to me to compact the food down to have less air. Is this wrong or is it just if you only have one grate it is better to have at the bottom so to seperate from the juice?
Thanks for the advice about watering down the juice.
Cheers & Thank You!
May 15, 2009 at 7:29 pm
billjackjane
Hi Wedding Planner tips. aw shucks, you have been going down the wrong trail. PLease PM me with the reseller so I can re-train that store. No, the grate on top of the waste is totally wrong. The grate sits in the bottom of bucket (on a ledge) then you place the waste on top, then bokashi powder. The grate makes a space (drainage cell below, approx 1L) for the bokashi juice that leaches out from the solids above. All the waste above is the bokashi compost. Hope this helps.
May 18, 2009 at 8:49 am
weddingplanningtips
Hi billjackjane, Changes made to our system – thanks!
Just a note that perhaps you could include a pamplet with your bins (ours didn’t have one). This way you don’t have to rely on your sellers. The pamplet could stick the the front of every bin (hence also don’t have to rely on the sellers giving out the pamplets).
Thanks again
Sarhn
May 19, 2009 at 3:07 pm
billjackjane
Hi Sahrn. We always include by default, Product brochure and 2 page instruction sheet and have been trying to adhere to this for the last 5 years. Sorry if your package missed out on this. It may have been an honest mistake. Please send your postal address to cameron@bokashi.com.au and I will send you the brochure and instructions again.
Where did you get your system from, from us directly, or from one of our resellers?
Regards
Billjackjane
May 20, 2009 at 12:49 pm
weddingplanningtips
Cheers billjackjane I will do that right now.
July 25, 2009 at 9:39 pm
Prashant Gudsoorkar
We are pleased to introduce a new product that helps compost organic waste (FOOD & OTHER ORGANIC WASTE FROM CANTEENS, RESIDENTIAL COMPLEXES) much faster than any of the traditional composting methods known so far. The product is an electromechanical unit whose brochure is being attached with this mail for your reference.
WHO CAN BUY ?
IT Parks & SEZs, Residential Complexes, Townships, Hotels, Industrial Canteens, Fruit & Vegetable markets, Large temples
INPUT TO THE UNIT
Either of the below :-
Direct canteen / household waste, Cut / uncut fruits & vegetables, Dry leaves, Twigs, Flowers, Paper, Grass, Weeds, Organic biosludge, etc.
PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS & PROCESS IN BRIEF
1. Processes any biodegradable wet or dry organic waste as mentioned above and immediately denatures it !
2. The smallest machine with 600 kg capacity per 8-9 hrs has a batch size of 26 kgs and the 3 ton capacity unit has a batch size of 127 kgs.
3. The process involves feeding the organic waste into the unit, along with a small amount of culture (powder) – typically, 25 – 35 gms for a 26 kg batch.
4. If the input is very wet in nature, some absorbent like sawdust or dry leaves has to be added to the input. (This additive is not required once you get the composted manure after the initial 15 day curing process – the dry manure itself can be used as an absorbent additive.)
5. The unit is run for 15 mins after which the waste is completely denatured and odor free. It does not attract any rodents, birds or animals. The wet / moist mud-like output is then spread out as heaps and left for curing. A roof is advised during monsoons so that the curing process is not affected.
6. Typically composting gets completed within 10-12 days and the final product is a highly fertile organic soil enricher.
Please refer the attached e- brochure.
WE ALSO OFFER SOLUTIONS FOR MUNICIPAL (TOWN LEVEL) NON HAZARDOUS WASTE MANAGEMENT SOLUTIONS.
Thanks & Best Regards
Prashant Gudsoorkar
+91 9373306463
PUNE , INDIA
July 26, 2009 at 6:12 pm
weddingplanningtips
Hi Prashant Gudsoorkar, thanks for your comment and info. Do you have a website with more info?
October 19, 2009 at 11:56 pm
Rob.b
Thanks for the Bokashi videos. They are very detailed and descriptive. The illustrations are quite clear.
October 20, 2009 at 2:42 pm
weddingplanningtips
Thanks Rob.b, I am working on another Bokashi video and will up in the next couple of posts. Sarhn